Condé Nast Traveler

It's just good. This new Commodore location, located about as far east in the East Village as one can get without taking a dip in the East River, is just as good as its hallowed original Williamsburg location—albeit a bit fishier. That's only because the interiors, which duplicate the easy, beachy motifs of the original, go even farther with built-in fish tanks casting a happy blue pallor into the neon-lit bar-dining room. The food here is classic American dive food—the fried chicken (a plate of which will cost you $22) and biscuits may have but them on the map, but the burger and fish tacos are just as good at $14 and $17 respectively. The queso (served with french fries) is as simple as it gets with three ingredients: American cheese, whole milk, and chopped pickled jalapeños making me so so happy. The cocktails—colorful, ecstatic, often rum-filled, sometimes frozen—can be mixed and matched with whatever menu item suits your fancy.

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